Here we go again (Italy 2025 part 15)



At this point, I had really accomplished everything I wanted to for the day (even packing), and it was only 4 in the afternoon. So I did what I always do when I have extra free time, and went for a train ride (or several)! At this point, the only Milan Metro line I had ridden was the 5, so I decided to check out the other four. Line 2 is green, and has pretty bland stations (though I appreciate the vintage clock on the end wall). 



Line 2 is the longest line in the system, but I just rode one stop over to Centrale, where the wild architecture of Line 3 provides a stark contrast. But before I head over there, I promised you a tour of Centrale, my favorite Italian train station. 

Popping out into the plaza above the metro stations, you're surrounded by mid-century buildings, which are always nice to see (even if they are looking a bit run-down). I strongly considered staying at one of the several hotels in these buildings, since that would have been a very convenient location, but they all got fairly mediocre reviews, and the place I ended up at was much nicer even if the location wasn't as convenient. 


The monumental station building is a real contrast to its surroundings. I tend to skew towards enjoying modern architecture, but I do appreciate these ornate old buildings too. 



Entering the station, you pass through a massive outdoor gallery that's now home to the metro entrances and (of all things) a Victoria's Secret. At some point, this was the taxi rank


Continuing onward, the next space is the original ticket hall. Or more accurately, the ticket hall lobby -- the actual ticket offices were apparently in separate rooms on each side, which have now been completely rebuilt as retail space. We'll see the modern ticket offices later -- they've been moved into the "new" part of the station built in the old freight area. 

For now, we're going straight up the big stairs, following the original flow of passengers. 





At the top of the stairs, you reach another grand hall running the entire length of the station, with huge openings leading to the train hall. Unfortunately, you can't actually get there without a train ticket these days. The inclined moving walkways leading down into the "new" part of the station below seem rather out of place in this historic building. 

The callbacks to ancient Roman architecture, going as far as using V in place of U in "uscita", are very intentional -- this was built during Italy's fascist era, and the people in power really wanted to project the power of the Roman Empire. Sound familiar? Strongman governments always want to go back to the past instead of moving forward. 

 There's one of these exit halls on each side of the station, flanking the ticket hall(s). 

Then on each end of the grand hall, there are more stairs down to more doors leading out the side of the station building. This place is seriously massive. 



Underneath the main concourse is a two-level mall space added in the 00s in what used to be space for cargo and other back-of-house functions. I always love inclined moving walkways, but other than that this area isn't particularly interesting. 


The modern ticket office is right in the center, straight ahead from the original ticket hall. The curved glass wall keeps it from being too boring, but I'm sure the original ones were much nicer. 






Anyway, that's about everything -- we mostly looked at the left (west) half of the building, but the two sides are largely identical. Now it's time to head back down to the metro. 







Next up is line 3, which was built in the late 80s and has an absolutely wild design. From the crazy ceiling and lighting to the square-block walls (just like American retail chains used in that era), it's just amazing. The old pay phone surround in the second-to-last photo is particularly nuts -- imagine using a pay phone on a busy subway platform! 



Unfortunately, that's where the fun ends, as line 1 is back to the boring 60s design. The dark finishes on all surfaces just make these already cramped underground stations feel even more claustrophobic. 



I took that train just one stop to change to the line 4, the newest part of the system (lines 4 and 5 were built out of order for some reason). Line 4 is pretty much identical to line 5, along with the Brescia Metro and Rome's Line C, which all use the same Breda automated train system. 




I rode through to Sant'Ambrogio, on the newest part of the line that just opened late last year. Unfortunately, the new stations are nearly as bland as the original 60s ones! I wish Milan had continued the energy from the Line 3 design. 

Then it was just another quick ride on the line 2 back to Garibaldi to finish the day. I quite like the design of Milan's newest metro trains, especially how the design on the front incorporates the ATM logo. 

And just for a little fun -- this was right across the street from my hotel. Yep, I came halfway around the world, and still ended up next to a Microsoft office! This is rather timely, since it's Microsoft's 50th anniversary in just a few days. 

And that's it for this last day in Italy. Probably two more posts to come, focusing on the trip home, and then it will be back to retail.

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